Tuesday, 27 November 2012

Dries Van Noten Spring 2013 RTW

Kel Markey

Lina Zhang

Lina Zhang (detail)

Ji Hye Park

Maria Bradley

Katlin Aas

Tilda Lindstam

Helen Maloletko

Helen Maloletko (detail)

Lara Mullen

Ava Smith

Maja Salamon

Mackenzie Drazan

Mackenzie Drazan (detail)

Mackenzie Drazan (detail)

Esther Heesch

Esther Heesch (detail)

Amra Cerkezovic

Ji Hye Park

Ji Hye Park (detail)

Tilda Lindstam

Anabela Belikova backstage

Katlin Aas and Maria Bradley backstage

It's not his best but Dries Van Noten's delivers a coherent and very wearable masculine and feminine dichotomy. Plaid, floral, soft and wispy fabrics with in womanly and loose shapes somehow match and look as if they were made for each other. This is the signature genius of Van Noten at work and there isn't anyone else in the industry who can take such combinations to a stylish and elegant level when he's delivering good collections. Let's hope he continues on this level and higher given his last couple of less than appealing efforts.

Sunday, 18 November 2012

Bottega Veneta Spring 2013 RTW

Andie Arthur

Ava Smith

Ava Smith (detail)

Bette Franke

Caroline Brasch Nielsen

Fei Fei Sun

Hanne Gaby Odiele

Hanne Gaby Odiele (detail)

Hanne Gaby Odiele (detail)


Josephine Skriver

Julia Nobis

Kasia Strauss

Mackenzie Drazan

Marie Piovesan

Maud Welzen

Sara Blomqvist

Sigrid Agren

It's not ground-breaking design but my gosh is it beautiful to look at. Tomas Maier has delivered one of the finest collections this Spring by doing the near-impossible - making vintage 1940s look new again and by improving on the stylised features that don't translate into now. The embellishments, raw edges here and there, a mesh cardigan, and fringed black leather handbags. He was not merely recycling looks or silhouettes from another time, this collection was an extension and improvement on it - there is a distinct but subtle difference. Although this approach may just be a blip in Maier's otherwise more signature designs, it might just not be. 

Saturday, 17 November 2012

Anthony Vaccarello Spring 2013 RTW

Cara Delevigne

Anja Rubik

Bo Don

Ella Kandyba

Giuliana Caramuto

Karlie Kloss

Kinga Rajzak

Pauline Hoarau

Since his debut in Fall 2011, Anthony Vaccarello has built a fast reputation for making the most classic and short cut-out body-con dresses in fashion. He has since had models lining up to be in his shows for free even! It really is no wonder. His clothes are best worn by slim and tall women but that said, I haven't seen anyone else in his pieces before so who is to say they wouldn't work? This Spring Antonio has branched out a little going for some colour and metallic among his signature black. The Roman skirts and loose martial-style shirts are also something new and certainly add to his look, however, I still yearn for last Spring's almost solely black affair. It will be interesting to see what direction he goes in next.

Antonio Berardi Spring 2013 RTW

Andie Arthur

Ava Smith

Agne Konciute

Mackenzie Drazan

Elza Luijendijk

Juliana Schurig

Irina Nikolaeva

Mackenzie Drazan

Tilda Lindstam

Where Antonio Berardi's last Spring show only displayed hints of brilliance, this Spring it became very clear that Berardi has arrived with a comprehensive collection and look that displays his own passions. Embroidery, embellishment, sporty, tailored but often loose, feminine but with an edge, there is much more to come from this designer. Keep an eye on Antonio Berardi - I know I'll be looking out for his pieces in Australia.